All Pro LLC

Third service call for the same air leak. I was the third guy 🔧

Freightliner with an air leak on the main supply line under the 5th wheel. The driver had already paid for two service calls before me on this exact problem. Both times they put a union in the line, and both times it blew back off.

Maybe they werent installing it right. Maybe I could have put in another union and it would have held fine. But this driver had already paid twice for the same fix, and I wasnt gonna make it three times.

So I cut the line down and ran a solid uncut line straight to the valve. No union, no splice, nothing in the middle to blow off. Zip tied everything back where it needed to be so it wont rub or hang.

Fired it up, built full pressure, and no more leak.

Sometimes the quick patch isnt the right fix. If something keeps failing in the same spot, stop patching it and take the weak point out completely.

Callout $100, labor $160/hr, parts on top. Same day pay. Cash, card, EFS or Comdata.

Want to learn how I think through repeat problems like this? Its all inside my Skool community, Wrench to Riches. $20/mo locked in for founding members. Link in bio.

—Steven, All Pro

Part 2 — the actual repair on that coolant shutdown 🔧

If you missed part 1, this truck went into full engine shutdown from a bad coolant level reading. Bypassed the sensor with a 15 amp fuse to get him off the highway and to a truck stop for the real fix.

Heres what happened next 👇

Rolled up to the truck stop with a BRAND NEW RESERVOIR loaded in my truck. Not just a sensor — the whole reservoir.

Why? Because I didnt want to show up with just a sensor, install it, and find out the sensor wasnt actually the problem. Then Id be looking dumb sending the driver back down the road with the same issue OR making another parts run.

Turns out I made the right call 👇

Pulled the reservoir off, put the new one on. Refilled with the same coolant the truck uses, topped off what got lost swapping tanks (maybe 1/5 of a gallon). Fired it up, brought it to operating temp, checked for leaks — nothing. Coolant level reading perfect. No shutdown, no faults.

The sensor was FINE. The float INSIDE the old reservoir was stuck. Thats what was giving the false low reading and triggering the shutdown.

If I had just brought a sensor Id have swapped a good part for a good part and been back to parts store chasing my tail. Bringing the whole reservoir let me fix it in ONE trip and get the driver rolling.

Heres the lesson for the mechanics watching 👇

When youre rolling to a job, dont just bring what you THINK is broken. Bring the WHOLE assembly so you can fix it no matter what the real problem turns out to be. Charge to return if not used but all in all it saves you TIME — and time is the most expensive thing you have as a mobile guy.

Driver got back on the road same day. No follow up needed. Done right the first time.

Callout $100, labor $160/hr, parts on top. $125 computer diag when ECM hookup needed. Same day pay only. Cash, card, EFS or Comdata.

Full playbooks on how I stock my service truck, how to price single-trip fixes, and how to think ahead on parts inside Wrench to Riches. $20/mo locked in for founding members.

Link in bio 👊

—Steven, All Pro

Simple trick that can save you from a shutdown 🔧

Coolant level sensor went bad on this truck and it triggered an ENGINE SHUTDOWN. Not a derate — a full shutdown. Truck was down, driver was stuck.

Heres the fix to get rolling again 👇

Find your coolant level sensor on the reservoir tank. Pull the sensor plug off. Install a 15 amp fuse across the plug terminals to jump the circuit and BYPASS the sensor. That tricks the ECM into thinking the sensor is reading normal and clears the shutdown so you can restart and drive.

Now you can either:
- Finish your load if youre close
- Get off the highway to a safe spot for repairs
- Limp to a shop or a mobile mechanic

This is NOT a permanent fix. Youre bypassing a safety sensor — meaning if your coolant actually IS low, you wont know until something worse happens (like a locked motor). Use this to get out of a dangerous spot on the shoulder or to finish a critical load. Then GET THE REAL REPAIR DONE.

Follow along for PART 2 dropping soon where I show you the actual repair we made on this truck 👊

Callout $100, labor $160/hr, parts on top. $125 computer diag when ECM hookup needed. Same day pay only. Cash, card, EFS or Comdata.

Full playbooks on roadside tricks, when to bypass vs when to tow, and pricing your work inside Wrench to Riches. $20/mo locked in for founding members.

Link in bio 👊

—Steven, All Pro

Hey yall I owe you an apology 🔧

I know Ive been slacking on the videos lately. Truth is work has been WIDE open. Callouts back to back, fleets calling, roadside jobs every day. Between wrenching from sun up to sun down and running the business side, filming took a back seat.

Also had to step away for a minute and actually reset. Took a little vacation with the family, unplugged, recharged the batteries. Sometimes you gotta do that or you burn out — and a burnt out mechanic doesnt help anybody.

Back now and ready to hit it hard.

More roadside videos coming SOON. DD15s, X15s, air systems, brakes, all the good stuff. If youve been following me for the diesel content — its coming back strong this week.

Also — for anybody who missed it — Wrench to Riches is still going strong on Skool. Full courses on how I built this business from a side gig to full time. Business setup, pricing, marketing, getting customers, all of it. Founding member spots at $20/mo locked in for life are still available before the price goes up.

Link in bio if you want in 👊

Thanks for sticking with me. More content dropping this week.

—Steven, All Pro

DOT put this truck out of service. 3 violations. Driver needed it legal to roll TODAY 🔧

Rolled up and pulled the OOS sticker paperwork:

1. Brake chamber air line rubbed by a bracket
2. Drive tire with a nail
3. Brakes out of adjustment on truck AND trailer

Driver told me straight up — do the bare minimum to get me legal and back on the road. Thats it.

So thats exactly what we did 👇

BRAKE CHAMBER LINE — Bracket had been riding on it long enough to wear a groove into the line. Wasnt leaking yet but DOT flagged it because it WOULD have failed eventually. Instead of replacing the whole line ($$$ and more downtime waiting on parts), I REPAIRED it. Cut out the damaged section, put in a union fitting, pressure tested it, and re-routed away from that bracket so it wont happen again. Legal. Safe. Rolling.

DRIVE TIRE — Nail in a repairable spot. Plugged it right there instead of a whole new tire. Legal repair. Held air. Back to work.

BRAKES OUT OF ADJUSTMENT — Truck and trailer. Ran the whole set, adjusted every one to spec, verified stroke on every chamber. Back in DOT compliance.

Total time on site — under 2 hours. Driver rolled off with a legal truck and money in his pocket instead of an empty wallet from parts he didnt need.

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Heres the lesson 👇

My job is to give the customer options and tell him whats legal and safe. His job is to decide what he pays for. Every one of these repairs met FMCSA legal requirements. Every one was done to spec. Nothing was cut corners on safety.

Some mechanics wouldve tried to sell him $2K worth of new parts he didnt need. I gave him the fastest legal fix and got him rolling.

Guess who he calls next time hes broke down in the upstate?

Callout $100, labor $160/hr, parts on top. Same day pay only. Cash, card, EFS or Comdata.

Full playbooks on DOT violations, roadside repairs, and how to give customers options without overselling inside Wrench to Riches. $20/mo locked in for founding members.

Link in bio 👊

—Steven

ABS light on. Speed sensor code. Most guys just throw parts at it. Not me 🔧

Rolled up on a truck with an ABS light and a wheel speed sensor code. Easy move would be to just swap the sensor and hope for the best. Thats how you eat parts costs and still not fix the problem.

Instead I did the actual DIAGNOSTIC work 👇

Step 1 — OHMED IT OUT
Pulled out the multimeter, checked the resistance across the sensor. Reading was in spec. Sensor internals are good.

Step 2 — AC VOLTAGE TEST
This is the one most guys skip. Set the meter to AC voltage, spin the wheel by hand, and watch for a voltage output. A good sensor will generate AC voltage as the tone ring passes it. Mine was reading LOW.

Low AC voltage with good resistance = sensor is fine but too far from the tone ring. Air gap is wrong.

Step 3 — PULLED THE SENSOR
Sure enough — sensor had backed out from the wheel hub. Not far. Just enough to kill the signal strength. Cleaned it up, pushed it back in seated tight, cleared the code.

Customer back rolling. NO parts needed. Saved him $150+ on a new sensor and about $160 on labor guessing.

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Heres the lesson for the mechanics watching 👇

Diagnostic tools cost money and take time to learn. But they SAVE the customer money and make you look like a magician when you skip the parts cannon and find the real problem.

Ohm test tells you the sensor is electrically alive.
AC test tells you the sensor is doing its JOB.
Two different tests, two different answers.

Learn both. Charge for the skill.

Callout $100, labor $160/hr, parts on top. $125 computer diag when ECM hookup needed. Same day pay only. Cash, card, EFS or Comdata.

Full playbooks on ABS diagnostics, sensor testing, and how I price diagnostic work inside Wrench to Riches. $20/mo locked in for founding members.

Link in bio 👊

—Steven

The customer calls the shots. Not me 🔧

Rolled almost 2 hours up into North Carolina today for a call. Customer just wanted a new coolant cap and his coolant filled back to full. No looking into what happened. Thats it coolant filled and cap on. In and out.

That “simple” job pulled the same invoice as if I had replaced a whole radiator — because when Im driving 2 hours each way, the travel time counts. Callout + travel + labor + parts. Same money for 20 minutes of actual wrench time.

Heres the thing most mobile guys mess up 👇

My job as a mobile tech is to make suggestions. Point out worn belts, dry rotted hoses, a slow leak somewhere, brakes getting thin. Give the customer the full picture and my honest recommendation.

But at the end of the day, the repair I make is the repair the customer PAYS for. If he wants just a cap and some coolant — thats what I do. I dont pressure. I dont oversell. I dont refuse to do the small job because I want a bigger ticket.

Because heres what happens when you respect the customers wallet:

1. They call you back next time
2. They tell other drivers about you
3. When something bigger DOES break, guess who they call

The mechanics who oversell every job kill their own repeat business. The mechanics who show up, do exactly what was asked, and MENTION what else they saw — those are the guys with a full schedule.

Small jobs pay the same as big jobs when you charge right for your time. Dont turn down the easy money.

Callout $100, labor $160/hr, parts on top. Same day pay only. Cash, card, EFS or Comdata.

Full playbooks on how I price long-distance calls, when to upsell and when to shut up, and how to build a repeat customer base inside Wrench to Riches. $20/mo locked in for founding members.

Link in bio 👊

—Steven