Growing with Drew420

Haven't posted in a while my main account got banned for a while, but the cherry poppers I planted a few weeks back are looking great (pic soon). Im running into a few issues on these photos like salt burn, drooping fan leaves, either watering to much or not enough. My last grow i used straight tap water my plants had zero problems this grow im using distilled water and ive had issue after issue.

Today

1 weeks ago

Cherry Poppers (also called Cherry Popper or Cherry Popperz) most commonly refers to the Barney’s Farm feminized photoperiod hybrid (Lemon Kush × Cherry Zkittlez / Cherry Z), a 60% sativa-dominant plant. Other breeders offer similarly named cuts with overlapping but not identical genetics (e.g., candy-cherry dessert lines or 7 East Genetics versions). Confirm your exact genetics when possible, as phenotypes vary.
It is generally intermediate difficulty, cooperative with training, medium vigor, and produces dense, resinous, cherry-candy buds with citrus/cream notes. THC is commonly reported in the 22–31% range. To reach full potential (high yields, dense frost, strong terps, and color), focus on canopy management, precise environment control, moderate feeding, and careful late-flower conditions.
Key Specs (Barney’s Farm Cherry Poppers)
Flowering time: 60–65 days (8–9 weeks) indoors.
Indoor height: Typically 100–120 cm.
Outdoor height: Up to ~200 cm.
Yields: Up to 600–650 g/m² indoors; outdoor plants can reach 1,000+ g (reports up to 2,000 g under ideal conditions).
Stretch: ~1.5–2× after flip — plan height carefully.
Outdoor harvest: Early to mid-October in temperate/Northern Hemisphere climates (prefers warm, Mediterranean-like conditions with low late-season humidity).
Germination & Early Growth
Use the paper-towel method or plant directly into plugs. Keep 21–26°C (70–79°F), high humidity, and darkness until the taproot appears (usually 1–3 days). Transplant carefully into a light, airy medium (quality soil, coco-perlite mix, or similar) with excellent drainage. Avoid overwatering seedlings.
Vegetative Stage
Light: 18/6 schedule. Aim for 300–700 PPFD (LEDs work well).
Environment: Day temps 24–28°C (75–82°F), nights a few degrees cooler; RH 60–70%; VPD around 0.8–1.1 kPa. Good airflow strengthens stems.
Medium pH: 6.2–6.8 (soil) or 5.8–6.2 (coco/hydro).
Nutrition: Balanced vegetative formula with moderate nitrogen. It is not a heavy feeder—start low and increase gradually. Supplement Cal-Mag under high-intensity LEDs.
Training (critical for full potential): Top once or twice (around the 4th–5th node), use low-stress training (LST), mainlining/manifolding, or set a S***G net. It responds very well to these and develops multiple strong tops. Defoliate lightly as needed for light pe*******on. Flip when the plant is at roughly 50–65% of your target final height to account for stretch.
Flowering Stage
Switch to 12/12. Expect noticeable stretch in the first 2–3 weeks.
Environment: Early flower days 22–26°C (72–79°F), RH 50–60%. From mid-flower onward drop RH to 42–50% (down to ~40–45% in the final 1–2 weeks) and maintain strong, consistent airflow plus oscillating fans. Dense buds trap moisture and are susceptible to mold/bud rot if humidity or stagnant air is an issue.
Lighting: 700–1,000+ PPFD (higher with CO₂ enrichment and proper environment). Keep lights at safe distances to avoid stress.
Nutrition: Shift to higher phosphorus/potassium bloom formulas. Keep EC moderate (roughly 1.6–2.0 in coco/hydro depending on the plant’s response); it can be sensitive to overfeeding late in flower. Continue Cal-Mag as needed. Many growers taper or flush the final 7–14 days with plain pH’d water for cleaner flavor and burn.
Canopy work: Light defoliation around days 18–25 of flower and again near day 42 if leaves shade bud sites. Support heavy colas with trellis or stakes if needed. Cooler nights (18–20°C / 64–68°F) in the last 2–3 weeks can encourage purple/anthocyanin expression in some phenotypes without stressing the plant.
Harvest, Dry & Cure
Harvest based on trichomes (mostly cloudy with some amber for balanced effects) rather than strict calendar days—many phenos finish well in the 56–65 day window. Expect a favorable calyx-to-leaf ratio that makes trimming relatively easy.
Dry slowly in the dark at ~15–20°C and 55–60% RH with gentle airflow until stems snap (usually 7–14 days). Cure in jars at 58–62% RH, burping as needed for at least 2–4 weeks (longer preserves the cherry-candy terps better). Proper curing is essential for unlocking the full flavor and smoothness.
Additional Tips for Maximum Potential
Airflow & mold prevention are non-negotiable because of the dense bud structure.
Organic living soil or well-dialed coco/hydro both work; the strain is fairly adaptable.
Outdoor: Full sun, well-draining fertile soil, protection from heavy late rain/humidity, and ample root space deliver the biggest yields.
Phenotype variation exists—select keepers that match your goals (stronger cherry vs. more citrus/candy, structure, color).
Track VPD, runoff EC/pH, and plant response; adjust rather than following rigid schedules.
Always grow only where it is legal, and follow local regulations. Results depend heavily on genetics, environment control, and attentive management—dial these in and Cherry Poppers can deliver excellent bag appeal, resin, and terpene expression. Happy growing!

why is the s**t grown at home better then the dispensary s**t? (Because the s**t at the dispo has pesticides in it) Thats not a stab at anyone, its been awhile since ive come across something that I could smell from across the street, and i just grew some just like that. Second everyone has the same s**t, even my old 🔌 (R.I.P) would have 100 different types to pick through, and from different people. Third if your wax is over $100 a jar and you have the same stuff as everyone else and their's is selling for $60 a jar, that just means you're just out here to bust heads, or you need to find a new 🔌, cause your head is being busted. Dont worry I wont come out of retirement, and f**k the game up again, my wife wont let me, and its for the best...

I'm done with Facebook for the most part, but im keeping this page up for beginner growers, and also so I can look back on my notes. If you want to join the group I'm ok with that, 2 rules dont be a bitch to other people and no political bulls**t.