Course by Course

📍Athens Notes, Part 1 🇬🇷

A few months ago, Athens was named among the Top 10 food cities in the world by Time Out. “Culinary awakening” would be a mild characterisation, yet with chefs continuing to creatively rediscover Greek ingredients and time-honoured recipes, while balancing that elegant line between tradition and modernity, there has perhaps never been a better time to explore the Greek capital.

To Kafeneio 1987, in Kolonaki, is an ideal example of restraint and letting ingredients speak for themselves. The setting sets the tone, with an upscale yet purposefully understated interior, while the food remains unadulterated and unmistakably Greek.

Dishes such as tomato with capers, artichokes, shrimps “gambari” and local cheese with tomato jam were not only profoundly tasty, but simple by design. The chocolate mosaic, a must-order, provided an equally understated ending to a dinner where minimalism and ingredient quality were celebrated.

Moving on to a private dinner, an experience not associated with a particular restaurant but useful to highlight the excellence of Greek seafood.

From red shrimp and red mullet carpaccio to tuna tartare and beautifully balanced seafood pastas, the common denominator was not complexity, but precision. Each dish allowed the quality of the produce to remain at the forefront, with acidity, salinity, texture and richness carefully brought into equilibrium.

There is something particularly Greek about that sense of balance. It can be found in the simplest everyday dishes as much as in an ambitious upscale dinner: good ingredients do not necessarily need more added to them, but rather the right things around them.

Finally, Barolo Restaurant offers something altogether different. A dependable Italian restaurant and deli in Kolonaki, it does not rely on a groundbreaking concept or elaborate storytelling.

The linguine cacio e pepe with truffle was a standout, while the pizzettas made for an easy accompaniment to a more social meal.

📍Izakaya Kamura, Saigon 🇻🇳

There is no denying that Saigon’s Japantown is full of character. It feels like you are inside a video game, faced with an endless array of scenarios, or in this case, restaurants.

Izakaya Kamura is one of those spots that might lead some to skip past it at first glance. It does not make the frequently published “Japantown must-try” lists, and its name is not heard around the neighbourhood nearly as often as those of the more recognised venues.

And perhaps that is exactly why it merits a visit. Not purely for the novelty, or the feeling of having discovered a hidden gem, but because the food is genuinely worth trying.

A vividly decorated interior screams Japan, which might initially come across as gimmicky, much like the woman outside attempting to entice customers in.

Those feelings quickly dissipated as soon as the food arrived. Their eel rice bowl was exceptional, fatty yet balanced, flavourful without becoming too heavy. The sushi followed suit, with quality fish offered at prices that remain remarkably reasonable.

And in the end, that is the real appeal of Izakaya Kamura. It may not have the recognition of some of Japantown’s more established names, nor the understated appearance that might initially draw you in. But once the food arrives, none of that really matters.

It is simply a very good izakaya, and one that deserves a little more attention.

寿司と天ぷら居酒屋かむら- Izakaya Kamura
Pricing Tier: $/$$

📍5 spots worth seeking in Thessaloniki 🇬🇷

Thessaloniki’s dining culture has a long-standing tradition, built around casual, no-frills venues known as taverns, or more recently, “gastrotaverns”. So distinctive is this style of dining that it has helped kickstart an entire culinary trend across Greece.

Starting off with ORBITAL, a micro bakery concept transitioning to a bistro as the day progresses. From unique Greek inspired pastries such as the “galatopita” and some of the best cardamom buns in the city to dishes such as Cacio e Pepe, chicken cutlets and a rotating selection of pies, there is something for everyone.

Voukakrato - Βουκάκρατο is an exciting addition to the seafood-friendly Kalapothaki side street, and the fact that it opened between two emblematic fish restaurants yet managed to create an identity of its own says plenty. A fiery open kitchen serves inspired dishes such as the “Russian salad” with blue crab, amberjack burger and a shrimp pasta that somehow managed to be both indulgent and restrained.

tsiz.plz is a new pizza opening in a city that has recently become blessed with plenty of them. A Neapolitan-style crust is paired with bolder creations, with the honey pepperoni and truffle cream variations being two particularly good examples.

New Galerius might not reach the creative highs of some of the city’s more established institutions, but it is an ideal example of how far ingredient quality can take a restaurant. Relying on freshly caught fish and seafood in a no-frills setting, it is Mediterranean purity at its finest, with dishes such as the grilled prawns, couscous salad and steamed mussels showcasing top-notch ingredients through restraint rather than complication.

Last but not least, Fatto a Mano SKG is known for having some of the best ice cream in the city. Flavours range from the classics to seasonal creations such as fig, with the latter offering a particularly fitting taste of the season.

📍Where to eat in Bangkok: 19 places worth seeking

Overstimulation. In a city that never sleeps and apparently never stops eating, that is the most accurate word to describe the array of options available in Bangkok, where every great meal introduces you to the possibility of an even greater one around the corner.

19 places might not be near enough coverage for such sheer variety, but it entirely the point: a city with such an overflow of good food that it is constantly rewriting your itinerary.

Starting off bright and early with LARDER: Bakery, Charcuterie, Deli & Coffee, a Polish-inspired bakery which has gone to become one of Bangkok’s most creative brunch spots (and yes, their iconic Tuna 3000 dish is really that good). In similar fashion, Fran’s All day - Brunch & Fran’s All day - Brunch & Greens bacon toast that is an ideal alternative.

Street food is the city’s pulse and venues like Here Hai (crab omelette), Khao Moo Daeng Si Morakot (crispy pork), Prachak (roast duck), Ruathong (boat noodles) & Rung Rueang Pork Noodles all perfectly encapsulate the city’s foodie-oriented soul, one dish at a time.

A mention has to be made to the legendary Banthatthong Road, with classics like เจ๊โอวข้าวต้มเป็ด (tom yumเจ๊โอวข้าวต้มเป็ดVanich (seafood dishes) being popular guarantees. The same food street is also home to ฮาโร่ย ไก่ทอดประเทศหาดใหญ่ฮาโร่ย ไก่ทอดประเทศหาดใหญ่Hat Yai style fried chicken, with fellow fried chicken speciality spot Polo also vying for the title.

Besides street food, the city’s versatility is equally seen at highly sought after dinner tables. Cheninbkk (เชนิน) is a winCheninbkk (เชนิน)ting menu, Sri Trat Restaurant & Bar Sri Trat Restaurant & Barrat province, while izakayas like Fatboy Izakaya & KIMI NOMUFatboy Izakayaof KIMI NOMUs love affair with Japanese cuisine, at a quality perhaps unseen anywhere else outside of Japan.

The best spots though, are the ones that are self-discovered. Custard Nakamura is a hidden Japanese bakery well worth seeking, while Charmkrung is a Thai styleCharmkrungse nestled at the top of a warehouse.

Lastly, head to ฉัน - CHUNN for Thai styleฉัน - CHUNNuri bowls & AFTER YOU dessert café forAFTER YOU dessert caféert toasts.

📍Muoi, Saigon 🇻🇳

Creativity in food is a wonderful thing, and there is plenty of it in Saigon. A modern Vietnamese seafood w**e bar is one of the city’s latest openings to get people talking, and rightfully so.

The best way to describe Muoi would be reinterpretation. Not in a revolutionary way; modern Vietnamese concepts are already well established within Saigon’s dining scene, but through a thoughtful approach to honouring local recipes in a more polished setting.

Muoi does that, subtly so. The setting gets everything right about what a w**e bar should look like, but the comparisons just about stop there.

The menu is a clever nod to Vietnamese dishes and flavours, merely reinterpreted through a modern lens and left to diners to identify the parallels.

Case in point: the purple yam ash with prawn butter, a comforting side as well as a tribute to canh khoai mo, and the crudo mam ca linh, blending familiarity with novelty in a masterful way.

The tiger prawns continue that story, cooked in a “Kho-Tau” pepper glaze in an ode to the Southern Vietnamese cooking technique, while the seafood curry croquettes served inside a mussel shell were without a doubt the best bite of the night.

What is striking is how desserts, rather than treated as an afterthought, play a central role to the delivery of the concept.

The flan, finished with a savoury fish sauce caramel, might sound like it shouldn’t work. It not only does, but became the evening’s most memorable dish.

A fitting takeaway? Come for the w**e bar, stay for the twists. There will be plenty.

MUOI BISTRO
Pricing Tier: $$/$$$

**ebar

📍Saigon Ramen Collection Part 2 🇻🇳

For anyone who has visited Saigon and stayed long enough to wander beyond the obvious, the realisation that the city features some of the best Japanese food outside Japan will almost surely have crossed their mind.

Within this culinary subculture, ramen in particular is not only easy to find, but done exceptionally well. Following our initial roundup of five ramen shops worth seeking, Part II adds another four to the list, from bowls built around noodle purity to memorable mazesoba and some of the richest shrimp ramen in the city.

Starting with ITTOU RAMEN Le Thanh Ton, a seafood broth specialist serving one of the richest shrimp-based bowls we have encountered in Saigon. Deep, intensely savoury and unapologetically rich, it is a must for seafood lovers. Their mazesoba is equally worth ordering, combining flavoured minced pork, noodles and a rich egg yolk into the ultimate comfort bowl.

Kirimen Vietnam takes almost the opposite approach. Where modern ramen can often become a playground for increasingly elaborate broths and toppings, this Osaka-born concept places the noodles firmly at the centre. Its signature Kiritama, consisting simply of noodles, a salt-based sauce and raw egg, is an exercise in restraint and perhaps the ultimate test of quality. There is nowhere for the noodles to hide — and they do not need to.

味噌麺　千蔵 feels particularly well suited to Saigon’s rainy season. Their aged soy and miso ramen bowls are rich, deeply flavourful and exactly the kind of meal that can transform a gloomy afternoon into something considerably cosier.

Last but not least, ramen_ichibanken is one of Saigon’s most popular ramen chains, specialising in the creamy, pork-based bowls that have made tonkotsu such a global favourite. Rich, deeply savoury and carrying a pronounced garlic kick, this is among the more indulgent bowls on the list.

A month spent between two continents, with food to match. From incredible char siu in one of Saigon’s hottest new openings to an unforgettable plate of carbonara in Rome, August’s monthly best bites span two very different culinary worlds.



CoCo Dining and its newest Lưu Tích tasting menu offered a masterful expression of nostalgia and memory preserved through food, with the fermented squid being the standout bite.

There are not many words left to describe SÂM Saigon. A concept loyal to its philosophy down to the smallest detail, with Chợ Lớn-inspired herbal cocktails and, most importantly, one of the most succulent plates of char siu in Saigon.

MUOI BISTRO, a modern Vietnamese w**e bar, is a place full of contrasts, with a dedicated feature coming soon. For now, the spotlight falls on the seafood curry croquettes, served inside a mussel shell and offering just a glimpse of the creativity coming out of the kitchen.

Moving on to Rome, and while carbonara is almost as ubiquitous as a convenience store on every corner, SantoPalato - Roma offered one of the best versions we have ever eaten. The elusive balance between egg, cheese and pepper was achieved almost effortlessly, with the guanciale providing the final touch.

Last but not least, Trapizzino offered a very different take on Roman comfort food. Their burrata and anchovy version was a deceptively simple combination, with creamy burrata meeting the intense salinity of the anchovies and the crisp, chewy bread providing the perfect vehicle. A small but exceptionally satisfying reminder that some of Rome’s best bites do not need much complication.

More foodie adventures to come in September, so stay tuned.

📍Where to eat in Rome: 11 places worth seeking 🇮🇹

It is easy to feel overwhelmed when looking for food in Rome. After all, this is the city that gave us carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana and countless other dishes that have become staples far beyond its borders.

And yet, beneath Rome’s almost unwavering attachment to tradition, a gradual shift is taking place.

A new generation of chefs is respecting cucina romana while finding new ways to interpret it, through neo-trattorias, creative takes on nostalgic favourites, unexpected combinations and a growing appetite for experimentation.

This edition of Field Notes brings together 11 spots worth seeking across the Italian capital, from pasticcerias and market counters to Roman classics, modern pizza and contemporary interpretations of the city’s culinary identity.

By no means a definitive guide, but rather a snapshot of the city’s vast culinary ecosystem. And, of course, sometimes the best meal is still waiting at the neighbourhood trattoria around the corner.



Pasticcerias are so ubiquitous in Rome that the best choice can often be the one closest to you. In Monti, Panificio Biscotteria Roscioni serves an array of morning cornetti, with the maritozzo and Nutella pizza standing out.

Luciano - Cucina Italiana reputation precedes him. The so-called King of Carbonara is known for serving one of the city’s best iterations, yet it was the amatriciana that completely impressed, with aromatic guanciale contrasting perfectly against the spicy tomato sauce.

Testaccio Market, in one of Rome’s most historically working-class and culturally diverse neighbourhoods, is home to some of the city’s best street food. Perhaps the most iconic is Mordi & Vai, famous for its Roman sandwiches, including slow-cooked beef and tripe.

A general rule in Rome is that you should avoid eating within short distance of a major monument. piccolobucoroma, located metres from the Fontana di Trevi, is proof that rules are meant to be broken, serving some of the best pizza we tried in the city. The spicy salami pizza with its yellow base is the one to order.

While pasticcerias are alwa

📍Saigon Street Food Guide Part 11 🇻🇳

How deep does Saigon’s street food culture go? And, with the city’s culinary façade entering a new level, how much reinvention can street food staples endure while balancing novelty with their roots?

The eleventh edition of our Saigon Street Food Guide attempts to answer these questions, featuring a D5 dim sum hangout, a bánh mì from a Michelin-starred kitchen and another bánh canh cua discovery.

Starting off with BANH MI MOI, the latest project from renowned chef Peter Franklin, whose starry fine-dining complex has now found a more accessible rendition. A bánh mì cart featuring premium ingredients such as Wagyu and cold cuts sits alongside familiar classics, including a Hanoi-style fish cake iteration.

It might seem counterintuitive for a bánh mì to be positioned as an upscale item, yet these sandwiches leave little to chance. The Wagyu version in particular was generously filled and packed with flavour.

D5 is one of Saigon’s most culinarily diverse neighbourhoods, and perhaps one of the best places to understand just how deep-rooted the city’s street food culture remains. Hoc Lac is a no-frills dim sum spot that embodies this perfectly.

A steady stream of local diners throughout the day is perhaps the best endorsement, with tables filling and emptying without much ceremony. The dim sum itself is comforting rather than overly technical, and that is precisely the point.

Crab noodle soup remains one of Saigon’s more underrated street food staples, despite being one of its most satisfying. Bánh Canh Cua Hoàng Lan delivers a generous, deeply crabby bowl in an unassuming neighbourhood setting, with plenty of meat and a broth that makes the simplicity of the dish particularly rewarding.

As always with the city’s street food scene, the best of discoveries sit outside of guides like these, with personal wandering always leading to the most satisfying rewards.

📍2 brunch spots to try in Saigon 🇻🇳

Brunch has always occupied an awkward position in dining. Easy to enjoy, difficult to get particularly excited about, it can quickly become an exercise in familiar combinations served at a slightly more convenient hour.

Which is perhaps why places that give the weekend meal a little more thought tend to stand out, especially in a city as fierce with competition as Saigon.

Căn Tin, created by the team behind Michelin-recommended w**e bar Lua, is a good example. The concept revolves around sourdough, with the menu moving between French-style sandwiches, breakfast platters and pastries while the bread remains the constant.

The breakfast platter was perhaps the most representative expression of that philosophy. Speck, cheese, butter and jam arrived alongside excellent sourdough, with the salted butter in particular standing out. Sitting outside, surrounded by the understated setting, the whole experience had something of a French countryside bakery about it, provincial in the best possible sense.

BARTELS Vietnam 🇻🇳 takes the idea somewhere more casual, but is no less interesting. Its toastie sandwiches are the main attraction, with the kimchi pulled pork special combining plenty of richness with enough acidity and heat, with once again the quality of the sourdough making the difference.

The salmon toast was another highlight, particularly for the quality of the fish itself, something that is not always easy to come across in Saigon.

At the end, that is exactly what makes both worth seeking: they give brunch a little more personality than it usually gets.