Somrom Space

.
Following the lunar calendar, the ceremony of ‘Wan Rap Taa Yaay’ (วันรับตายาย) takes place around the harvesting season (1st - 15th day of the 10th lunar month). It is the first part of a festivity which two weeks later is continued with 'Wan Song Taa Yaay'.

It is a time to show gratitude for the goods that have been harvested, while also remembering one’s ancestors as this gratitude is also shared with previous generations.

The ceremony can be traced back to Brahman traditions of showing respect towards the ancestors. The offerings (a ceremonial 'samrub' called 'hom rub' - หมรับ) showcase an array of ancient local dishes, sweets and fruit, prepared specifically for this occasion, which are then collected and shared within the local community.

One important part of the ceremony is the practice of ‘tang prayt’ (ตั้งเปรต), which takes place in two stages. The first stage takes place before the monks’ chanting, when the offerings are placed on a table, (or formerly in a sala) ‘la prayt’. Afterwards, towards the end of the chanting, people begin moving towards the table to collect the offerings. This part is known as ‘ching prayt’ (ชิงเปรต).

As a second stage, a symbolic part of the offerings is set aside for the ‘prayt’ - the spirit of the ancestors who are to be honoured and respected. On Koh Samui, these offerings are usually placed around coconut trees or at the temple's gate..

Especially among the older generation, this tradition is still valued as an important part of the ceremony. It reflects the spiritual dimension of how local people cook and prepare food for ‘Wan Rap Taa Yaay’.

All of this is part of the beauty of Samui’s culinary culture. Food is much more than nourishment, and even more than a social event. It carries a spiritual meaning that is deeply connected to the customs and everyday life of local people.

#วันรับตายาย #เกาะสมุย #อาหารคือคน

.
"Phak B**g Tai Raao"
(ผักบุ้งไต่ราว)

An ancient dish that can be found in Surat Thani. Blanched morning glory, rice vermicelli, cucumber and various other elements, topped with a sweet and sour dressing.

The dish's background is closely connected to the Chinese communities of Southern Thailand. Similar varieties developed in the old trading towns where Chinese food traditions met local Thai and Malay ingredients and tastes.

For example, in Phatthalung, a related dish is known as "Tao Khua" (เต้าคั่ว), whereas in Ranong, "Yaao Yeh" (ยาวเย) combines similar elements. Phuket, in this regard, has "U Chae" (อูแช้), while at the same time, we can see connections to "Pas Mos" (ปัสมอส) in Satun.

All of these are expressions of a shared food culture that has travelled along the peninsula, has been adapted became specific to different parts of Southern Thailand.

So, in this regard, "Phak B**g Tai Raao" is one compelling example of how Chinese, Thai and Malay food traditions became interwoven into the culinary landscape of the South.

Develop a deeper understanding of Southern Thai culinary cultures and their specific cooking techniques at our private, multiple-day masterclasses.

#ผักบุ้งไต่ราว

#เกาะสมุย

.
Two years after we've planted a little Cassia tree ('dton khee lek' - ต้นขี้เหล็ก in Thai) in our yard, now it developed the first blossoms to harvest and at the same time it was about time to trim the tree so in the near future its top would turn out more dense and eventually produce more blossoms.

Reason enough for us to cook 'Gaeng Khee Lek' for our dinner.
#แกงขี้เหล็ก
#เกาะสมุย

.
Exploring with Austin Bush

Three days of deep conversations, sensory challenges and most importantly: making sense of the layers behind Samui's local food culture. A reminder that understanding a regional cuisine means looking far beyond the recipes.

We immersed into markets where Melayu, Siamese and Chinese cultures meet, observed local communities' interactions and listened to my parents' memories of dishes as they remembered them from their childhood. And after all, we cooked ancient Samui-style dishes and family recipes at our home.

Along the way, we talked about Samui's distinct flavour profiles, seasonality of ingredients and the intentions behind particular dishes, while leaving room for creativity and new ideas that still make sense from the perspective of local traditions.

And inevitably we kept coming back to discussing Samui's changing culinary landscape and how industrialised food chains, large-scale tourism and overdevelopment are affecting the island's fragile environment and its food culture.

Thank you, Austin, for those purposeful days of cooking, listening and learning from each other. Until next time...

--------

#อาหานคืคน #เกาะสมุย

.
'Phak nor' (ผักเหนาะ) is a selection of fresh, seasonal vegetables, leaves, pods, beans and herbs which is a significant feature of Southern Thai eating habits but often overlooked from an outside perspective. A Southern Thai meal would be incomplete without 'Phak nor'.

You will most commonly see 'phak nor' at a 'raan khao gaeng' (ร้านข้าวแกง), where an assortment of fresh greens comes along with a set of 'nam chub' (น้ำชุบ). But this does not mean that Southerners only eat 'phak nor' with 'nam chub'. It is equally important alongside 'khanom jeen' (ขนมจีน), Southern Thai 'samrub' (สำรับ) sets and even 'khao yum' (ข้าวยำ), where the right combination of greens becomes an important part of the balance of flavours.

If we imagine a Southern Thai 'samrub' as a vehicle, 'phak nor' would be the engine oil. It brings everything together and gives the whole eating experience a smooth and rounded finish. A Southern Thai meal without an array of fresh greens on the side simply doesn't work.

The variety of 'phak nor' is enormous. And because most of it is seasonal, what appears on the table is constantly changing from one season to another and from one region of Southern Thailand to the next.

But which 'phak nor' is served with which 'samrub' is not determined by season alone. Flavour balance is equally important. One leaf might support a particular flavour, while another provides contrast. Some greens help to mellow strong fragrance (ดับกลิ่น - dab glin) while others have distinctive properties that stimulate the appetite.

And then there are the nutritional and medicinal qualities of these tropical greens, herbs and vegetables, which have always been part of the local wisdom surrounding Southern Thai food.

It is simply part of the way we eat - a staple of a local Southerners eating culture

-----

The 'phak nor' items in the picture are as follows:

1. ลูกเนียง
2. ลูกเขือแว้ง
3. ยอดมะตูมแขก
4. ลำแย้
5. ยอดเล็บรอก
6. ยอดผักบุ้งนา
7. ยอดหมุย
8. ตอ
9. ลูกฉิ่ง
10. ยอดตอเทศ
11. อ้อดิบ

#ผักเหนาะ #อาหารคือคน #เกาะสมุย

.
Khua Plaa Khem
คั่วปลาเค็ม

Silky on the surface, dense body, yet still delicate.
This is one of the distinctive versions of "Gaeng Khua" (แกงคั่ว) that can be found on Koh Samui.

The dish tells us a lot about life on the island. This kind of "Gaeng Khua" is also commonly prepared for ceremonies and communal celebrations such as weddings or funerals.

-------

When cooking Southern Thai food, did you ever have some of these questions in terms of "Gaeng Khua"?

Does it always have to be intense with black pepper?

Is Southern Gaeng Khua the same as Gaeng Khua in Central Thailand?

Can Gaeng Khua also have a more liquid character?

Does it always have to be made with pork ribs?

What does khua actually mean in Southern Thai terms?

Is Gaeng Khua based on coconut milk or water?

Do we begin by cracking the coconut cream and stir-frying the curry paste in, or by boiling the paste in water?

Can Gaeng Khua be finished with a small amount of coconut cream?

And does it always have to be pungent, spicy and fiery?

-------

If you would like to explore this and other topics more deeply, sign up for an individualised private masterclass at Somrom Space.

www.somromspace.com/contact

.
Nong Khai - a small province along the Mekong River with one of the most diverse culinary landscapes in Isaan. Its location along old travel routes, combined with the rich soil nourished by the river, has shaped a remarkable variety of local ingredients, dishes and culinary traditions.

During our journey through Isaan, we were seeking to learn as much as possible from local people and understand their traditional approach to cooking. In Nong Khai, we were incredibly fortunate to meet N’Many from หนองคายและอื่นๆ โดยรอบ - a powerhouse of a woman involved in exhibitions, local festivals and many other projects that bring people together through culture.

N’Many was an incredible support throughout our time in Nong Khai. She connected us with local cooks, village communities, historians and other knowledgeable people we would never have been able to meet without her. Thank you, N’Many, for all your time, your help and, above all, for always caring about us.

Our extended thanks also go to Mae Inn, a local villager and skilled cook; to Jiraporn Chaiyes who took the time to introduce us to so many traditional Nong Khai dishes along with the help of Raviya Wongsathitana and Nil Khanapat Then especially to N’Khamkaew from ห่างเมืองคาเฟ่ who shared his deep knowledge of local cooking and the cultural details of the region. Thank you for your time and simply for being who you are.

Together with Kru Ong in Nong Khai and Ajarn Fu in Nakhon Phanom, we met people who shared the cultural and historical background that helped us understand the region’s food in a much deeper way.

All of these people became our teachers along the way. They are true masters of their fields, and the knowledge and wisdom they carry about their region are impossible to put a value on.

The meaning behind #อาหารคือคน - food is people - became clear to us once again through all these encounters.

Thank you to everyone who made our time along the Mekong such a meaningful and unique experience.

PIMPA พิมพา - a place that will always have a special place in our hearts.

Ahead of our journey through Isaan, we reached out to James Tanatit - a local from Loei province - hoping he could introduce us to the food culture of this tucked-away corner of Thailand.

We had a feeling it would be a great experience, but what followed exceeded all expectations. Those few days with James and his family gave us the most genuine insights into the culinary traditions of Northern Isaan.

From foraging in forests and rice fields to exploring local markets and the region's distinctive ingredients, and finally cooking alongside James' mother, Mae Jai, whose eye-opening guidance made every dish a lesson, we couldn't have wished for a better introduction to the food of Loei.

Mae Jai grew up on the familiy's farm and learned from her 93-year-old mother, Yaay Pimpa, who still shares her wisdom and lends a helping hand in the kitchen. The opportunity to learn from someone with a lifetime of experience is impossible to overvalue.

What stayed with us most, however, was James' genuine hospitality and care. His attention to every detail and sincere concern for our well-being made us feel like much more than guests. For those few days, we somehow became part of the family.

James is now building a project that introduces Loei and its beauty to a wider audience. It's not just about food, but about experiencing the province's rich culture and nature as a whole - showcasing the true character of one of Thailand's lesser-known regions.

If you wish to experience a place in its most genuine way, Pimpa Loei is probably the best place to do so.

To the whole family - especially James, Mae Jai and Yaay Pimpa - thank you. We wish you all the best and hope to see you again soon.

.
More often than we might realise, being proud of "our" food culture prevents us from seeing it clearly.

As a child I grew up with the food, culture and people of Koh Samui and the nearby mainland. They are undeniably a part of me. But today it feels like I only began to really understand them because I had left.

At the age of nine, I moved away from Southern Thailand and spent the next fifteen years in a world completely different from the back then quiet villages and coconut groves of Koh Samui. Looking back, that distance gave me a perspective I could never have gained otherwise.

Being away loosened my attachment to the place I came from. Instead of seeing it simply as home, I began to see it as part of a much larger context - a place shaped by hardship, tradition, rituals and migration over countless generations.

That distance also changed the way I look at food.

Traditional Southern Thai dishes are no longer just local recipes or symbols of identity. I now see them as records of history. Every ingredient, technique and flavour reflects the choices people made with the resources they had, the climate they lived in and the knowledge they carried from afar. What appears simple on the plate often contains centuries of accumulated wisdom.

For that reason, I don't feel proud of "our" food culture. Pride suggests ownership, but this cuisine was not created by us. It was shaped by generations who came long before us. What I feel instead is appreciation - for their knowledge, creativity and the opportunity to learn from what they left behind. And when I think about how basic their lives were, I feel genuine admiration.

Only by first appreciating what previous generations created can we thoughtfully reshape culinary traditions for the future - preserving their essence while allowing them to continue evolving.

-----

#อาหารคือคน #เกาะสมุย

.
A selection of traditional Southern Thai dishes we cooked over the past few days.

Each dish, in its own way, reflects the deeply interwoven multi-ethnic heritage that has shaped the cuisines of Southern Thailand.

Together, they offer an opportunity to understand why Southern Thai communities embraced particular ingredients and cooking techniques, and how these everyday-life's choices came to define the essence of their culinary traditions.

A private multiple-day masterclass with Southern Thai Chef Vivid B Chu - founder of LeDu Thai 🌱 | SOUTHERN THAI RESTAURANT PHOENIX
#อาหารคือคน