Amazing Rabbit Center

Shout out to my newest followers! Excited to have you onboard! Oyagbola Qozeem, Ogu Udochukwu, Prince Makusha, Clifford Mudzinganyama, Roy Lloyd Mabundu, Tongai Svondo, Godknows Godah Mtchona Jaiwelo, Robert Kibet, Felix Machiko, Segun Olatayo, Hopewell Matanhire, Ernest Muinami, Ebeneri Manhivi, Joe Gentle, RM Switchblade, Mlungisi Dladla, Khumbulani Moyo, Patrick Vimba, Nkosilathi Mpofu, Rtbs Tsito Tsiky, Amo Thapelo, Maclean Simbi Chiumla Maclean, Babalola Durodola, Norah Tembo, Mustapha Adebayo, Jonathan Runesu, Mdrascl Islam, TwinPeaks Pales

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐆𝐎𝐋𝐃𝐄𝐍 𝐑𝐔𝐋𝐄 𝐎𝐅 𝐖𝐄𝐀𝐍𝐈𝐍𝐆

By the time your heavy commercial kits reach 5 to 6 weeks of age, they have become entirely self-sufficient. They are aggressively eating dry commercial pellets, drinking continuously from the automated water ni***es, and their mother's milk supply is naturally beginning to dry up. It is officially time for "weaning"—the critical farm process of permanently separating the mother from her babies so her body can rest before she is bred again. However, how you separate them is a matter of life and death.

The most common and devastating mistake a beginner can make is pulling the babies out. A new farmer will often grab all 8 or 10 fragile kits, pull them away from their mother, and dump them into a brand-new, completely strange grow-out pen on the other side of the farm. In commercial farming, this triggers a fatal condition known as "Weaning Shock." On the exact same day, these young babies lose the psychological comfort of their mother AND the safety of the only home they have ever known. The sudden environmental stress completely shuts down their sensitive digestive systems, causing them to stop eating and often resulting in severe, fatal diarrhea within 48 hours.

To guarantee zero stress and zero mortality, a professional farmer always moves the mother and leaves the babies.

A massive, mature Giant Chinchilla doe or new Zealand white is incredibly strong; she can easily handle the minor stress of being moved to a clean, quiet resting cage. Meanwhile, the fragile, five-week-old kits are left completely undisturbed. They get to stay in the exact same cage they were born in, surrounded by the exact same smells, drinking from the exact same water ni**le, and sleeping next to their familiar siblings. Because their environment never changes, they experience zero psychological stress, never miss a single meal, and continue their explosive, profitable growth without skipping a beat!

Shout out to my newest followers! Excited to have you onboard! Carrington Mutanha, Molly Chikomo, Happison Gohodo, Canaan Martial Mavhura, Garikai Madzimba, Ble Marimira, Jeremiah T L Chirume, Tinashe Chinyenze, Taurai Musewe, Terrence Tichaona Makuvaza, Elijah Tendai, Leo Muswewemombe, Carlos Tatenda Chanaiwa, Elvis Motau, Lecious Tarutira, Amanda Chigowe, Milton Kutsakatika, Alao John Opeyemi, Romain Robass, Mzansi Klean, Mai Bradie, Walter Rusere, Muchena Lionel, Jordan Marcella W**e, Guides Dhliwayo, Dalubuhle Sibanda, Kingston Charewa, Obolokile Maphane, Ezekiel Mulanduli, Ricardo Karonga

Feeding Guidelines by Life StageYoung Rabbits (Under 6 Months):

Safe to feed freely alongside grass hay, as the extra calcium and protein support growing bones and muscle development.Pregnant or Nursing Does: Beneficial for extra energy, milk production, and recovery.

Adult Rabbits: Feed only in small pinches or as an occasional treat (1–2 times a week) because the high calcium content can cause bladder sludge or stones, and high calories can cause obesity. The main diet should be grass hay (like Timothy or meadow hay).Recovering or Underweight Rabbits: Helpful for promoting weight gain and enticing older rabbits with reduced appetites to eat.

How to Feed LucerneFresh Lucerne: Introduce it very slowly into the diet, feed it immediately after cutting, and remove any uneaten portions after an hour to prevent spoilage and bloat.

Dried Lucerne (Hay/Chaff):
Mix a small handful into regular grass hay or place a measured amount in a clean feed dish. Always provide fresh, clean drinking water.

𝐃𝐄𝐒𝐈𝐆𝐍𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐂𝐎𝐌𝐌𝐄𝐑𝐂𝐈𝐀𝐋 𝐇𝐔𝐓𝐂𝐇

Now that you have identified your market and selected a heavy commercial breed like the new zealandwhite, it is time to build their home. One of the most disastrous mistakes a beginner can make is buying their expensive foundation rabbits first, bringing them home, and rushing to nail together a temporary wooden box for them to live in.

In a profitable business, your infrastructure must be ready before the animals ever arrive. In the Funmilayo Hutch system, we strongly advise against using solid wood floors. While wood might seem cheap and easy to build with, it acts like a giant sponge. It rapidly absorbs rabbit urine and f***s, becoming permanently wet and foul-smelling. Within a few weeks, a solid wood floor becomes a dangerous breeding ground for deadly bacteria, respiratory-choking ammonia gas, and intestinal parasites like coccidia that will wipe out your investment.

To raise commercial rabbits successfully, you must build commercial housing. The absolute gold standard is the all-wire suspended cage system. By using heavy-duty, galvanized wire for the floors, all the urine and f***s fall straight through the cage and onto a slanted dropping board or waste pan below. This completely removes the rabbits from their own waste. An all-wire hutch provides massive airflow, keeps the rabbits' feet perfectly dry, and drastically cuts down your daily cleaning time, ensuring your high-quality breeders stay perfectly healthy and highly productive!

Are you planning to build professional all-wire cages right from the start, or were you originally thinking about using solid wooden hutches to try and save some money?